Rolling waves As a beginner, you're looking for a wave that breaks gently or "rolls" at the top. Also called spilling waves.
Pitching waves Waves that break quickly from top to bottom are far more difficult to catch.
Beginner wave Waist high or smaller is a good size for the beginner.
Expert wave Anything head high or above could hurt the novice surfer.
Rip Currents When water is carried toward shore by waves, it sometimes gets funneled back to sea in strong currents called rips. If you get caught in one, paddle parallel to the beach until you pop out. Don't tire yourself trying to fight against it. Many surfers use rips to get outside the breaking waves.
As for sharks, don't even worry about them. Your chances of getting struck by lightning or killed by an automatic garage door are far greater than getting bit or eaten by a shark. If you think you see a shark, it's probably a dolphin. If you see a really big dolphin, it's probably a whale. Seals and sea lions are not a threat to humans. However, shuffle your feet as you enter the ocean in shallow water. Stingrays can be numerous at beaches with sandy bottoms and their "sting" can be very unpleasant. Stingrays can't bite, but they have a nasty, poisonous spike on their tails that they will lash at you when stepped upon.
Attitude counts: Adopt the a good surfing spirit if You're a beginner, a KOOK, be humble out in the water. Say hello. Be overly friendly. Defer to the locals and relish every scrap of wave you can get. Learning to flash the "stink eye" at intruders invading your home break will come naturally
So Get out there and Surf!
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